| Farm-at-a-glance

Mariquita Farm
www.mariquita.com
Location: Land
in Watsonville and Hollister
Years farming: Andy has farmed for
the last 20 years in various capacities from farmworker
to owner, from large farm to small.
Total acres farmed: 25
Key people: Andy, farmer and rave king;
Julia, farm wife, CEO, mom, email elf, etc.; España,
foreman, tractor driver, all around repairman; Jose
España, head harvester; Lourdes Duarte, head
vegetable packer
Range of crops: greens, root crops,
tubers and herbs, berries, peppers, tomatoes, garlic,
melons, artichokes, and more besides that.
Marketing methods: CSA and 1 farmers
market, with a small number of carefully selected restaurants
that pick up at the farmers market
Soil type: silty loam
Regenerative practices: cover cropping,
crop rotation, fallowing
Length of season: all year |
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June 16, 2005: Sometimes my wife expresses frustration
that I won’t multitask--that I would be lost if I was a mother
with kids to feed, with a business to run, bills to pay, and never
enough time to do it all. At other times I hear in her voice a note
of pity, as though it’s dawning on her that I actually can’t
multitask--that I’m doomed by faulty chromosomes to a plodding
life in the fields, never accomplishing more than one thing at a time.
Maybe she’s right on both counts. But I am smart enough to farm
my fields in such a way that every crop delivers multiple harvests.
One of the challenges to farming on a small scale is that preparing
ground, sowing, and cultivating can take up a disproportionate amount
of time relative to the size of the harvest. If, like me, you grow
a wide range of crops, urgent tasks compete for your attention.
When you only have one tractor it’s even time consuming to
change the tractor’s implements as you hop from chore to chore.
Since I can’t sow, cultivate, harvest and chew gum at the
same time, and since there’s never enough time to get all
the work done, anyway, I’m always thinking about how to farm
so the most burdensome tasks are minimized.
Harvesting, while the most burdensome, is also the most critical.
We don’t get paid if we don’t pick. Luckily, there are
a few jobs I can coax from single-minded beasts to more efficient
multi-tasks.
Weeding: I try to sell our weeds so cleaning the
field becomes a profit center, not a loss. Nettles, lambsquarters,
epazote and purslane are all weeds that have found their way onto
our restaurant delivery truck while they’re still young and
tender. We hoe out the survivors when they’re older and tougher.
The good news is that weeds are nasty plants, contrary by nature
and cynical. When edible weeds realize you’re making money
at their expense without even going through the sowing, fertilizing
or irrigating, they’ll often shrivel up and die of resentment.
Thinning: If a sowing has been successful, then
thinning out the crop may be important lest the plants grow too
crowded and become lanky, weak and prone to fungal attack. Direct
seeded chard, kale and broccoli are three crops that are easy to
sell loose leaved at the thinning stage. Restaurants buy them and,
increasingly, farmers market patrons do as well. Young broccoli
leaves are so tasty that I’ve been tempted to start growing
broccoli just for the baby leaf market. If you don’t have
many thinnings of any particular kind, the various types can often
be tossed together and marketed as a braising mix.
Harvesting: I also like crops that yield over
long periods of time. Summer squash is great because we can sell
the unopened male flower buds as “fiorelli”. Fiorelli
is just Italian for little flowers. Some of our restaurant clients
like to saute these buds and tumble them with pasta. When the squash
flowers open there’s a whole other market with restaurateurs
who want to stuff the blossoms and fry them. Our CSA customers prefer
squash to be small, “fancy” or “extra fancy”
sized. Ironically, the bigger squash that slip past our first harvest
are appreciated by the “extra fancy” restaurants we
sell to because they are cheap to buy and can be chopped up like
firewood into sauces and soups. I’ve even sold the last hard
shelled, pithy, overgrown zucchinis to the Martha Stewart types
as porch decorations or skinny pumpkins.
At this point most of our summer crops like tomatoes, peppers,
basil, eggplant, and squash have been planted and cultivated. The
edible weeds that plagued them have been harvested and sold or gotten
woody. But I see little green valentines carpeting the ground. Baby
mallow, Malva sylvestris..... Pigweed! I should cultivate
it out right now before it sends a fibrous taproot all the way to
hell. But, realistically, tomatoes are too tall to cultivate and
anyway, the tractor’s occupied preparing ground for our first
fall crops of radicchio. And we’re too busy harvesting orders
to stop and hoe. I can’t afford to hire any more workers either.
Hmmm...

I seem to remember from my travels in Bolivia that this odious
malva was much esteemed as a medicinal herb and occupied pride of
place in the garden. I was told that mallow can be prepared in teas
and taken as an expectorant, an anti-inflammatory for irritated
tissues or as a laxative.
In between managing my fields, driving the harvest into the packing
shed, delivering the produce to my customers, and doing right by
my family I should research Malva sylvestris and learn
more about its potential as a crop in its own right.
I don’t have to plant the malva because it went and planted
itself. If the Bolivians are right all I’ve got to do now
is convince a nation of harried American consumers that as they
balance the demands of the workplace with the needs of body and
soul, and while they steer from appointment to appointment juggling
their cell phones as they eat, there’s always a healing cup
of malva tea waiting for them at home.
Making Malva relevant for a multitasking world may be a tall order
but maybe I can do it if I take the task ahead of me step by step,
one thing at a time.
| Lamb’s
Quarters (also called Fat Hen or quelite de ceniza)
is an ancient form of spinach. It is a nutrition superstar.
Fat hen can be eaten raw in salads, on sandwiches, or
used in soups or stir-fry. Steam as spinach and serve
as is or put in an omelet or lasagna.
Greens Tacos
recipe by Julia of Mariquita Farm
1 bunch fat hen, washed and chopped (stems optional)
2 teaspoons cooking oil
2 stalks green or regular garlic, chopped
Pinch red pepper flakes or cayenne
2 Tablespoons cream cheese
4-6 small corn tortillas or 2-3 larger flour ones
Prep your greens. Heat the oil and add the garlic.
Cook garlic for about 30 seconds. Then add greens and
cook until bright green and wilted, add red pepper (and
salt and pepper to taste). Take off heat and stir in
cream cheese. Heat tortillas, divide filling among them.
Eat and enjoy.
Serves 2-3
* * *
Quelites and Beans
adapted from The Vegetarian Times
1 bunch fat hen
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 stems green garlic or 3 cloves ‘regular’
garlic -- minced
3 leeks -- finely chopped
1 cup canned pinto beans -- rinsed and drained
1 teaspoon chili powder salt and pepper -- to taste
Rinse fat hen well, remove larger stems. Steam greens
in tightly covered pot until wilted. Drain and finely
chop them. In large skillet, heat oil over medium heat.
Add garlic and leeks and cook, stirring frequently,
until leeks are soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in greens,
beans and chili powder. Cover and cook over low heat
for 5 minutes or until heated through. Season with salt
and pepper and serve.
Makes 6 servings. |
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